Wednesday, July 14, 2010

A Rajdhani Experience

A journey on any of the trains of the Indian railway is always a very revealing experience. I was travelling by train for the first time in almost a year and had one of the best times of my life. Here is the entire narration:

I got on the train with just one bag and lots of expectation of a good nights sleep. As I was looking for my berth I saw at least half a dozen coolies ahead. I clutched my hands in prayer that they weren't crowded around my coupe and braved on ahead. As I approached the coupe knowing full well by now that they were indeed on my turf I attempted a weak smile. Now, it wasn't the site of the coolies (porters) that made me nervous but the implication that half a dozen porters meant that there were at least a dozen bags. I was wrong there were 16 pieces of luggage. A couple who had two berths had taken up the place meant for the luggage of eight people.

I settled into the little seat that they had graciously cleared for me. Feeling a little annoyed and trying to inspire the zen in me I pulled out a book and started reading. Gradually the other five people started appearing one by one. The first a lecherous, young college student. Kept smiling at me like we shared some kind of secret joke. I am quite sure this was the first time I was seeing him and there was nothing remotely funny about having the Great Wall of Baggage around me.

Then came a family with two cute little girls. One of them seemed to take an immediate liking towards me. I have to admit I was flattered. I am glad I did not encourage it much further because moments later she was coughing up phlegm at an alarming rate. Her mom proceeded to clean her up and dry the cloth on one of the seats.

The rest of the journey was uneventful if such a thing is possible on a train ride between the two silicon cities. What struck me the most was the level of tolerance we have developed. Is it tolerance or patience or just genuine understanding of someones predicament. Not one person complained about the suitcases. In fact not one of them looked remotely mad about it either. They started up a friendly banter. At some point when one of the little girls (the one that liked me) got whacked by her mom the college student came to her rescue. I can tell you this much - she did not need rescuing. At the end of my journey the guy also helped me down with the minimal luggage I had trying to glean every little bit of information he could from me. I have been in a room full of people at parties. But there could not be more warmth there than there was between eight random strangers in this B2 coupe of the Rajdhani Express.